Sun Moon Lake ( SML)
SML— Small Medium Large? :D
Sun Moon Lake is a gorgeous and fun place I wish I had more time to explore. I had only a 1 night stay, but would strongly recommend 2 nights' stay to fully explore on your own leisure pace. There is much to see!
Sun Moon Lake is a gorgeous and fun place I wish I had more time to explore. I had only a 1 night stay, but would strongly recommend 2 nights' stay to fully explore on your own leisure pace. There is much to see!
1 day in particular is too hurried a pace to enjoy really.
Air, Land, Water
Traveling around the lake leaves you much choices — air, land, water. You have it all. With the SML Nantou Pass, you can enjoy exclusive round-island bus ride, hop on and off on ferry and a round-trip on the cable car! Or even better, as the locals recommend, cycle round the island along those designated cycling pathways — unfortunately which I missed — to take in the sights of the lovely lake 360 degrees.
You can simply rent a bicycle but from what I observed not everywhere has a cycle-way. You might still need to cycle on the main roads along certain parts of the journey.
Round-Island Bus
I missed the chance to hop on and off the bus but here's the schedule. Seriously, 2 nights nights might have been sufficient to visit all the other attractions. Unfortunately, I do not have time to try out this bus. Taking the round-island bus is great because it brings you direct to certain locations like Ci En Pagoda, Wenyu temple, for which ferries don't reach.
Board a FerryActually from what I understand, accommodations are spread across Shui She Pier 水社码头 or Ita Thao Pier 伊达召码头. As for mine, I stayed in Shui She Pier. Before I can board the ferry I had my pass ferry coupon exchanged for one of the operator's ferry ticket. Actually I was more like approached to exchange for the ticket. There are in fact many ferry operators so I guess whoever gets the coupons en-cash for money too.
While the buses, you have to note the timings, the ferries however came quite regularly and you just have to note the last ferry from your destination to whichever pier you accommodation is located. Just don't miss that!
While the buses, you have to note the timings, the ferries however came quite regularly and you just have to note the last ferry from your destination to whichever pier you accommodation is located. Just don't miss that!
On the road towards Shui She Pier where you board.
Shui She Pier is just down the steps when you spot the signage.
And yes, it's a bustling sea of activities going on—what with the mass of China Chinese visitors.
Another symbolic stand stone bearing the name of the pier. Here, find your operator as per whatever ticket you are carrying. If you are clueless, just ask around~~
Xuan Guan Temple 玄光寺
It was a tight timeline and Xuan Guan Si was the first place to be. Clear bright skies at the Xuan Guan Pier.
Pearched atop a mini hill (?), the temple is within walking distance—obviously—via some flights of steps. Can you see at the highest point? Partially covered by trees though.
Step Up
Looks like a serene, peaceful place? Anything but. The place was fully overflowing with China visitors. The scenic was indeed tranquil. If you can stop by to appreciate the greens without being jutted out of the way by them.
I was foreseeing long flights up, but thankfully, it was quite manageable and elderly should do just fine too. In about 5-10 minutes, you should be able to reach the main hall of the temple.
Considered to be much faster than climbing up to Hong Kong's Big Buddha in Lantau Island.
The temple
As mentioned, there were so many tourists and the China Chinese were all vying to take photos. Even in front of the stone engraved with the temple's name ( which I can't be bothered or can't even capture a proper photo of) was not spared. There was even a snaking queue for it!
I could not take a proper shot without someone flashing in front of me. They came in tour groups- huge and "unbelievably" loud and I am sorry, but really barbaric, pushing around and hogging every photo spots.
It's a mini temple, simple and well maintained with devotees praying. The premises surrounding the temple was not huge.
I would have want to stick around longer and appreciate the architecture and scenic if the crowd was not so "fierce"—on taking photos!
From atop, spot this symbol of SML
When returning back to the pier there is something everyone who has been to Xuan Guan Si must do— Ah Ma's Tea Egg 阿婆茶葉蛋. The queue though long, was fast moving. Besides there was a big pot of cooked shelled egg.
金盆阿嬷香菇茶葉蛋
The egg was warmly hot use the plastic bag to peel off the shell. However sadly, I don't think I tasted any sense of mushroom or Assam tea leave. Perhaps it's just very faint tinge of flavor but with the noisy crowd bustling, there is no quiet spot to appreciate.
Haha, so in all, just a much ordinary boiled braised egg for me.
So a selfie with the landmark before I leave. Too many people hogging the stones. Phew.
Ita Thao Pier
This pier is the most happening of all with plenty of food snacks along the street. I would strongly recommend you to spend up to half a day or more.
This is also the pier to be if you want to catch the cable car up to the Formorsan Aboriginal Culture Village 九族文化村. It was raining cats and dogs when I was there and thus I was not able to take much photos but you can always trust the snack street if you are hungry. Plenty of food there and it's just a short walk to the pier. At this pier, there's also a Tourism Centre, so if there's anything you wanna know help is available.
There is quite some walk you have to do to reach the cable car station so don't arrive too late for the ride. Budget about 15 mins.
《劉山哥石板烤肉》
This is the first store at the corner and there's a huge Jay Chou face pasted on the banners. They sell a variety of pork sausages, hotplate pork and the Red tea bamboo half spring chicken ( the last 2 respectively at NT100 each).
Closed on Weds and Thurs.
10am–7pm
《啊布莎梦安》
I apologize for not being able to capture the appearance of the store because it was really pouring and there were no shelters in the middle of the road. Even an umbrella cannot prevent the drench.
Basically this stall sells barbecue meat sticks too and the mochi appearance is quite catching to say the least.
The mochi were skillfully toasted by the bosses on the fire grill repeatedly till crisp and golden on the outside, before chopped up into blocks in a bag. You may then choose from a range of flavors from original, seaweed, curry, peanut etc.
Really tangy-chewy and not overly sweet when coated with the flavorings of your choice.
I am not going to write about Formorsan Aboriginal Culture Village because what I saw is basically what every visitor will see. Nice, lovely place to know more about the respective 9 races in Taiwan. Very interesting and well curated in terms of the individual race's segmentation.
I might just revisit again next time round.
If you are interested in the culture and history, this is a great place to explore./
***
CheCheng Station車埕火车站
Instead I am going to introduce on CheCheng station.
A laid-back well-preserved station. This station has been marked as the prettiest station, despite being greatly damaged during the 921 earthquake and had been restored with the original wood.
quiet and at ease.
CheCheng station is the terminus for the Jiji Station and the more famous cousin of JiJi Railway station. Jiji line was built as a supplementary to transport equipment for construction work during the Japanese war period. Along the journey for the train, there are multiple stops along the 30km line from Jiji, Shuili to CheCheng in about 45 minutes one-way. CheCheng is a rustic, laid-back station. With a rich history and heritage of being a former holding depot for trains, this was a place prosperous with logging activities and the main point for timber transportation.
Olden days charm
I was in awe coming to CheCheng station. If not for the many locals and tourists scattered around, I would have thought that this was an abandoned part of the city. No, it’s definitely not a bad thing. For many of CheCheng’s nostalgic, yesteryear facades and conserved trains parts were preserved. You can glad fully see the watertanks and a museum showcasing the history of CheCheng's past logging industry.
You can spot many hydroelectric points along the way.
How to get there and back?
This is the bus schedule for the bus to Checheng and back to Shui She Bus terminal/visitor centre ( as I would call).
There will be counters at the terminal and you can ask for the bus SML- CheCheng Bus 6671 journey and time schedule. takes only 30 mins and pass by places like Toushe, XiangShan Visitor Centre ( also famous for its architecture).
When going back, go back to the bus stop opposite from where you alight. But it will often be parked with tour buses. Look out for your bus Number 6671 when the timing for arrive nears.
The buses are often very punctual !! Don't worry about missing the bus.
There are unfortunately not many locals or tourists who boarded the bus. Locals usually drive or ride their scooters I guess and tourists, well, mostly came with tour groups?
Catch the JiJi-Shuili-CheCheng train
When it stops at the train station , snap shots with it.
It's will be nice to take a train ride to! Tickets are available for purchase on the spot.
Try it!
Back to the old historical CheCheng Station.
Old-time trains on display.
Water dyke during during war times
CheCheng Wood Museum 車埕木業展示館
The Timber
Another Icon. This museum offers a glimpse into the olden day logging industry and lets you have your chance in making your own craft, when you pay a token sum. 
Wood Workshop
Eat @Cedar Tea House 木茶房
This dining place is another star pick for visitors. OF course the pricing is also slightly higher than normal bian dang 便当 / bento lunchboxes you have, But, for the experience, I would say just try it once, it's worth it. =)
The gorgeous wooden bucket below is what you can bring home with. and comes with hot-stamping on the lid which you can DIY yourself too!
The map of the station might look big, but it's not. You will be able to spot this dining place a short distance from the museum.
553, Taiwan, Nantou County, Shuili Township, 民權巷101號
Interior
This is the order chit.
The Wooden Bucket Bento Meal costs NT $390 ( SGD $16) and you can choose from a variety from Smoked Chicken Drumstick, Grilled Mackerel or Dong Po Pork. It's definitely on the higher end of a typical bento at the train stations about possibly NT$150/$200+
Gorgeous??
It was surprisingly tasty! The rice fragrant with the gravy and the braised chicken drum though slightly thicker at the skin was tender and flavorful!
I was in fact astonished by the portion served. The rice was generously filled to the brim with ingredients like corns, tofu, veggies, Chinese sausage. The sides were plentiful as well. Salad, fruit and a grass jelly bowl with a cup of tea to go along with it. It was definitely very very filling!
Well worth the price~~
Of course sharing is a good idea too if you want to eat other snacks along the way.
A pretty bag to store your bucket thereafter too,
Go Go!
CheCheng Station is a quaint historical place to be while exploring nature at the same time. It's a great place to be and I strongly encourage you to make the trip down yourself. If you are not taking the Jiji line just be sure to take note of the bus schedule timing back to Shui She, from the timetable I pasted above.
Other than that have fun and enjoy this historical journey of Nantou, Taichung.
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